Venice
VENICE …….. voluptuous and whimsical, elegant and mysterious, is and always has been an extravagant and colourful stage for the extra-ordinary of the world, attracted by the unique synergy of this exciting melting pot.
Made wealthy by vigorous trade, the Merchants of Venice were immortalized by Shakespeare as they went about their lucrative business in a free and open port. New ideas, experiences and inventions flowed in on the tide, along with ambassadors, messengers, foreign cargo, exotic animals, information, entertainers and pirates.
Once described as “The Finest Drawing Room in Europe”, tiny Venice became powerful and rich, its population eager for new experiences and thrills. Carnevale (meaning 'farewell to meat') originated as a religious celebration of only a few days in length, finishing at midnight on Shrove Tuesday and followed by the fasting & penitence of Lent. In the 18th century, reflecting Venetian society of the time, Carnevale became a decadent party that lasted months. Cloaks and masks provided a disguise for licentious behaviour and activities, with abandon and without recognition.
In the 16th century the Venetian population of 120,000 thoughtfully produced a 'guide-book' to the location, rates and attributes of its 11,654 prostitutes (10% of the total inhabitants????!!!!!?????), while courtesans spied for the authorities and some convents doubled up as places of secular and sensuous entertainment.
A cultural and social magnet to the rich, the extrovert and the creative, Venice has always attracted poets and painters, millionaires and musicians, adventurers and artisans to live, work and play on the Grand Canal, around the Campos (squares) and in the minute alleys called ‘calli’. Continuing this tradition, Venice now hosts the world's most famous contemporary art exhibition, held every two years, and attracting visitors world-wide, including me.
Today, Venice is as alluring as ever, and I loved it.
By chance, my Venetian 'homes' neatly reflected the Mercantile, Noble and Religious sectors that made up Venice. The first was a guest house that had been originally built by the Doge in the 13th century 'to suit the comfort of foreign merchants' who were taking their goods to the Venetian Rialto Markets, the second had formerly been a canal-side mansion, and the third was a Convent.
Nearby, I listened to the music of the Venetian Antonio Vivaldi, performed regularly in the Chiesa San Vidal beneath a glowing painting by Carpaccio. On the Grand Canal, I visited Peggy Guggenheim's famous modern art collection, and spotted the residences of the English poets Browning and Byron. Further afield, I found Tintoretto's 16th century house, Shylock’s Ghetto, and the brightly coloured houses on the lace-making island of Burano.
The fish-shape on the map that defines the main area of Venice is only about 5 by 3 kilometres (roughly half the size of Western Australia’s Rottnest), yet has 3,000 alleys, 170 canals and 400 bridges. On foot in this tiny maze I continuously discovered new painting subjects at every twist and turn, amongst stunning architecture, working canals and quiet backwaters, friendly little restaurants, interesting local bars, long warm evenings and delicious gelati. It was magic.
Laura Cole November 2003