PARIS et le Voyage du Ballon Rouge
I had an apartment in St Germain. It was so tiny that I thought of it more as a cupboard than a flat, until I met a student from the Sorbonne whose door was across the courtyard from mine. Her entire living space, including areas for cooking, sitting, studying, sleeping and ‘la toilette’, was packed into a 3m x 3m x 3m cube!
My street was called Rue Monsieur le Prince (how nice is that?!!??), near the intersection that connects the Sorbonne, the Luxembourg Gardens and the Pantheon, at the top of Boulevard St Michel. Location, Location, Location!
Inside, my ‘cupboard’ was well-appointed with all I needed, and, albeit tiny, was attractive and comfortable. The height-challenged sleeping space was a mezzanine ‘shelf’ over the kitchen/sitting area, and, as the advertising description quaintly said: “You cannot be upright in the bedroom, but it is good for the night.”
Outside could not have been better – my own front door into a small foyer, then through glass doors into a classic courtyard, which was common to about 15 assorted apartments and some offices. The really stunning feature was the ancient brown wooden double-doors to the street: huge, heavy (!), thick, and high enough for a carriage, with studs, bolts, knobs and concealed smaller doors, and the tactile patina of thousands of hands over hundreds of years. To cap it all off, my street doors were flanked by the red-painted Boulangerie to the left, and, to the right, the bright blue grocery-and-wine shop. Bliss!
I think the colour scheme for my paintings was formed at this point, even before paint touched canvas. The bright scarlet-red of ‘my’ Boulangerie and the strong cobalt-blue of the wine shop against the natural creams, honey-colours and blu-ish whites of old stone, marble and wood, became a recurring theme for me throughout Paris. Often, a colourful, freshly-painted shop-front stood out against the softer, more mellow surrounds, and other times the splashes of vivid reds, blues and purples were dominant, which I particularly noticed in many of the murals, paintings, stained glass and tapestries of Fontainebleau and The Louvre.
I often saw a bright spot of red in a more subdued scape – a carmine coat crossing the Pont Neuf, a vermillion book in a bookshop window in the Place de la Sorbonne, a cerise tray in the hands of a black-and-white-clad waiter in Le Marais (I love that name!), and I became aware of this same device in many paintings I saw in the fabulous Art museums and galleries of Paris. I also noticed a recurring “L” shape in many of the compositions, which I liked, so I incorporated this in my own work, along with the splash of red.
My days were spent painting and drawing, exploring and enjoying. I loved it all: the intricate and infinitely varied patterns of the wrought iron balconies; Art Nouveau, ‘La Belle Epoque’, and Art Deco; the vivid styles and colours of the café signs; white shutters and black lamp posts; the railway stations of the Impressionist painters; street markets and fresh produce; the grandeur of the Place des Vosges and the arcades of the Tuileries Quarter; the modern Pompidou Centre; patisserie windows of juicy strawberry-tart masterpieces; the view from the top of the Montparnasse Tower. Often enough, I noticed senior Parisiennes, advanced in years but exotically and/or extravagantly styled, who would not have been out of place in Baz Luhrmann’s “Moulin Rouge”, and I wondered about their stories, and the Paris they had seen. And I found the best art supply shop I have ever had the pleasure of being in - ever!
The location of my matchbox-flat was perfect for venturing forth on foot, with the cafes and art galleries of St Germain close-by, the Latin Quarter and the Seine just a short stroll, and museums and markets, icons and landmarks, inspiration and enjoyment in every direction. Back at ‘home’, the aroma of fresh croissants wafted through my window early each morning, and crisp baguettes, creamy cheeses and plentiful Merlot were available right at my front door – perfect for picnics in the nearby Jardin du Luxembourg, where I also saw an exhibition of Rene Lalique’s stunning Art Nouveau jewellery, and a delightful puppet show.
Bus-riding was much more fun than the underground Metro. I could see Paris from a different viewpoint - like a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower at the end of a narrow street, or furniture-moving from a 3rd floor window (!) - as well as get a feel for the lie of the land. And you can ‘talk’ with helpful and friendly strangers on a bus, even with only “French for Beginners” ability.
With a monthly transport ticket and a map, bus-hopping became an enjoyable part of my sojourn in Paris. The No. 85 bus was a favourite, which took me to the base of Montmartre and the little local bus connection to the top of the hill – Lautrec, absinthe and the ‘Moulin Rouge’, Sacre-Coeur and Utrillo, Van Gogh, Dali, Picasso, Braque and Modigliani…….mmm!
My new ‘Paris’ paintings were already well underway when I became aware of a 2007 movie, “The Flight of the Red Balloon” (by Hou Hsiao Hsien) which was inspired by the original 1956 film, “The Red Balloon” (writer-director M. Lamorisse). I located a DVD of the original; no copy was available of the more recent film, but it was still screening in Sydney - just.
My flight arrived late on Tuesday night, and I made it to the final showing of “The Flight of the Red Balloon” at 10.15 am the next morning in Newtown. Then I discovered the film was extending for a short time in Paddington, so I was able to see it twice more before returning to Perth. The DVD of the original “The Red Balloon” was waiting for me when I got home.
The films are about a red balloon that befriends a young Parisien boy and faithfully follows him around Paris. The original film, only 34 minutes long, is particularly delightful, and coincided perfectly with my painting concept – ‘ordinary’ (extraordinary!) Paris as well as the famous iconic views and intimate corners, a spot of red as a focal point, and a whimsical simplicity that lifts the spirit, lightens the heart, and makes you smile. My thanks and acknowledgements to Monsieur Albert Lamorisse and Hou Hsiao Hsien for their inspiration.
This, my new exhibition, is a happy view of a fascinating and fanciful Paris….............enjoy!
Laura Cole October 2008